Mr. Van Valkenburgh to Mr. Seward
Sir: As stated in my despatch No. 20 of this series, I proceeded to this city in the steamer Shenandoah, under the command of Captain Goldsborough, not on the 25th or 26th as first intended, but on the 29th ultimo, and arrived here in the afternoon of the 1st instant.
This brief delay was occasioned partly by my desire to await the arrival of the mail steamer Colorado, by which I hoped to receive despatches from you, and perhaps further instructions for my guidance; but I also deemed it of importance, in view of the peculiarities of this people, to fully ascertain the policy of this government in regard to the faithful observance of the treaty, and the subsequent agreements in connection therewith, previous to my departure for this place; and when I felt convinced of the sincerity of their repeated assurances that Hiogo and a port on the West Coast, and also the cities of Yedo and Osacca would be opened without fail to American trade and residence on the 1st January next, I left Yedo with my mind much relieved, only to receive here the confirmation of the success of my negotiations with the government at Yedo.
From enclosure No. 2 of my despatch No. 20, (copy of the Gorogio’s letter to me,) you will have perceived that the Tycoon was prepared to grant me an official audience in the early part of this month. I judged that my arrival here at an earlier day might perhaps be somewhat embarrassing to him; and that, at all events, in view of the non-expiration of the period of mourning for the late Mikado, my appearance at precisely the appointed date would be accepted as an act of courtesy on my part. It affords me much pleasure to say that I received the assurance that, as such, it has been duly appreciated.
The English and Dutch representatives, however, left Yedo as early as the 15th, and the French minister on the 23d ultimo; yet it was not until the 2d instant that they were officially received by the Tycoon. At 7 o’clock in the morning of that day I received a visit from a governor for foreign affairs, bidding me welcome to Osacca in the name of the Tycoon, and assuring me in behalf of his government that all the preparation for my reception had been completed. It was accordingly agreed that I should proceed to the temporary legation building during the forenoon.
At 10 o’clock the Shenandoah fired the national salute, which was returned [Page 33] gun for gun from the Osacca port; and at half-past 10 o’clock precisely I left the ship with my staff, and also accompanied by officers of both the Shenandoah and Wyoming, with an escort of 40 marines and 70 blue-jackets from those two ships. As I passed the fort at the entrance of the Osacca river, I received a salute, which was duly acknowledged by the Shenandoah.
As yet the city was not in sight; only the castle, which stands on an eminence, and a pagoda in its vicinity, showed me the extreme boundary at about six miles inland. Hundreds of small coasting junks and boats came crowding up the river and greatly enlivened the scene, which otherwise, owing to the level nature of the country and its rather sterile aspect, afforded no indication whatever of the approach to the large city enjoying the reputation of being the commercial metropolis of Japan.
As we proceeded, squads of the Tycoon’s infantry marched along with us on both banks of the river; this was a guard of honor, and also for the purpose of preventing evil-intentioned persons, if such there were, from throwing stones at the boats. At about two miles up this river, where the city may be said first to present itself, the boats were requested to halt, and the same governor for foreign affairs who had visited me in the morning invited me to come on board a large government boat, where refreshments had been provided.
We were delayed here only a few moments, and then resumed our progress in the same order of procession, passing under several bridges until we came, through thoroughfares crowded with most orderly people, to the official landing place at the foot of the castle. From this landing place a walk of about one mile, through streets lined on either side by Japanese soldiers, took us to the quarters prepared for us; and this temporary legation building, furnished with tables, chairs, and all other conveniences, is certainly as comfortable as could possibly be provided, when it is taken into consideration that such articles of furniture are not used by this people, but were mostly purchased at Yokohama, and thence forwarded to this place.
The American, English, and Dutch legation buildings are all situated in close proximity on the same street, and the French minister occupies barracks at a distance of about one mile from the legation street.
I must not omit to state here that all the arrangements in connection with my official landing were superintended by Captain Goldsborough himself, and that high praise is due therefor to that excellent officer.
I had scarcely taken possession of my quarters and hoisted the flag on the staff that had been provided, when I was visited by Itakura Ega no Kami, the senior Gorogio and minister for foreign affairs, and his colleague, Ogasawara Iki no Kami, who came again to bid me welcome in the name of the Tycoon, and to interchange the customary compliments on great occasions. They showed themselves highly pleased when I expressed my satisfaction at the accommodation that had been provided for me; and it was then arranged that I should have my private audience with his Majesty the Tycoon, as previously agreed upon at Yedo, on the next day, and my official audience, for the purpose of delivering my letters of credence, on the day following. At 3 o’clock in the afternoon of that day (the 3d instant) I accordingly proceeded to the castle, accompanied by Mr. Portman, Colonel Rumsey, my private secretary, Captain Goldsborough, Lieutenant Commander Carpenter, commanding the Wyoming, and Surgeon Rhodes, of the Shenandoah, preceded by the flag and a color-guard of marines, and followed by several companies of Japan infantry.
The Gorogio, governors for foreign affairs, and other high functionaries, received me at the entrance to the castle, and led me through various long galleries, with the beating of drums and the presentation of arms by the Tycoon’s body-guard; first into a large ante-room, where tea was offered, and then to the reception hall. After waiting a few moments the Tycoon made his appearance, accompanied by [Page 34] one sword-bearer only. The ceremony of introduction was performed through the senior Gorogio, and then the Tycoon opened the conference.
I should mention here that the young interpreter who, on the occasion of the visit of the Japanese embassy to the United States in 1860, enjoyed such vast popularity under the name of Tommy, though holding an army appointment as captain of engineers, now acted again in his former capacity between the Tycoon and me; and as not only myself but also the officers who accompany me must necessarily to some extent be the guests of the Japanese government during our brief stay at Osacca, the presence on this important occasion of this young interpreter, whose American predilections have ever been undisguised, may fairly be considered as a reminder that the liberal hospitality of which that embassy were the recipients is still held in pleasing remembrance here, and further as a suggestion that I must not hesitate to accept for myself and the officers of my suite of such hospitality as this country affords, and I have therefore accepted it as frankly as it was courteously tendered.
His Majesty the Tycoon is 31 years of age, and of extremely prepossessing appearance. There is that about him which stamps him as a gentleman; such simple dignity and such an air of perfect breeding, only equalled by his intelligence, which is as superior as it is unassuming. Our conversation ran principally on our army and navy matters, and the manner in which it was conducted on his part showed that he was well conversant with the subject.
You will no doubt recollect that on former occasions the foreign representative was not allowed to behold the face of the Tycoon. For about five years the Tycoon had granted no official audience to any representative whomsoever. The present friendly audience, in which I not only met the Tycoon face to face, but was seated at his right hand, was a fair indication of the wonderful progress that has been made in our intercourse with this people; but even this it strikes me cannot be compared, viewed in the light of progress, with the extremely handsome entertainment that followed.
The friendly interview lasted about one hour, after which we were conducted to an ante-room for a few moments, and then to the banquet hall, when the Tycoon made his reappearance, taking the head of the table, and we then sat down to an excellent dinner provided by foreign cooks, remaining there till 9 o’clock, his Majesty retiring half an hour before that time.
On the next day, the 4th instant, I proceeded at the hour appointed, accompanied by a numerous staff in full uniform, to the castle, for the purpose of delivering my letter of credence; and I now have the honor to transmit enclosure No. 1, copy of my address to the Tycoon, and No. 2, copy of his Majesty’s reply.
I also enclose No. 3, copy of the address of the British minister, and No. 4, copy of the Tycoon’s reply to him, with which I have kindly been furnished.
It is earnestly to be hoped that the friendship of the Japanese government, and their desire as exhibited on this occasion to increase the cordiality of their relations with the United States, may prove to have been a well-sustained effort, and that no reaction to the admirable feeling displayed be in store for us.
I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
Hon. William H. Seward Secretary of State, Washington, D. C.