No. 44.
Mr. Root to Mr. Fish.
Santiago de Chili, February 26, 1873. (Received May 5.)
Sir: In accordance with my promise made before starting on my recent voyage to the Straits of Magellan with Mr. Ibañez, minister of foreign relations, to whose kindness I was indebted for very much that made my long trip both interesting and comfortable, all of which I may be allowed to attribute, not only to personal friendship and natural nobleness of character, but to his high appreciation of the republic I have the honor to represent, I will give as briefly as possible an account of what has fallen under my observation and come to my knowledge during my absence, from the 14th of January until the 23d of February.
Our voyage to Sandy Point (Punta Arenas) had nothing of particular interest connected with it, save that it transpired in one of the first-class steamers of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, an English company controlling at the present time, not only almost the entire carrying trade of the west coast of South America, but also between said coast and Europe, a trade initiated by citizens of the United States, and which ought, and apparently might have been, with a little fostering aid from the Government of the United States, mainly if not wholly in the hands of American citizens up to the present time.
The Straits of Magellan are now the only traveled route for steamers in passing between the eastern and western coasts of South America. The waters are usually smooth and perfectly easy of navigation, and with ordinary care present no difficulties whatever. The various channels, bays, and inlets, however, leading in divers directions from and into said straits, are not very well laid down on any maps or charts, as, for instance, one afternoon on our outward-bound voyage, an American gentleman came hurriedly to ask me to go on deck, as we were passing through a very narrow channel, with high, rocky banks, covered with moss, and presenting most beautiful scenery. Soon after my arrival on deck the vessel emerged into a wider piece of delightfully smooth water, with no opening visible save the one through which we had entered, a kind of cul-de-sac, upon seeing which, of course, the steamer was instantly stopped, and as speedily as possible turned back into the proper channel, which we had left by mistake. The turning, however, of a ship over 400 feet in length in a small channel whose waters are unknown is not the work of a moment; fortunately we came out all right.
On the most recent charts and maps the narrow water which enticed us from our course is called Cordova Channel,” and is made to lead through to the Pacific Ocean east of the Island of Desolation. But our experience demonstrated the incorrectness of all such charts, and upon our arrival at Sandy Point the governor informed us that he also had information corroborating our experience. Cordova Channel was laid down being only of a few miles in length, with no southern outlet. The first channel leading from the straits through to the Pacific on the south lies many miles to the east.
For the most part the western end of the Straits of Magellan is much narrower than that from the Atlantic; and the entrance at Cape Pillar, on the Pacific side, is always more or less difficult, and often quite dangerous, owing to its rocky character, and the turbulent condition of the sea in that neighborhood, rendering it impossible sometimes for either [Page 110] sailing-vessels or steamers to enter. The sides of the straits toward its western extremity are composed of high, precipitous, and barren rocks, devoid of vegetation, except of a meager and mossy nature, while in the center, and especially east of Cape Forward, vegetation is more abundant, and in the neighborhood of Sandy Point immense forests of heavy timber abound. This timber is mainly of one class, a sort of beach, which makes very good lumber. There is another variety called hardwood, (Leña dura,) which is an evergreen, though not at all resembling any class of pines; on the branches and leaves of this the domestic animals of the colony feed to a great extent during the winter; also from it the charcoal of the colony is prepared.
The difficult and often dangerous navigation in the vicinity of Cape Pillar (Cabo Pilar) can be easily avoided by the navigation of Smyth’s Channel, which opens at its southern extremity into the Straits of Magellan at Cape Tamar, about sixty miles from the western entrance of the Straits of Magellan, in latitude about 53°. The entrance to Smyth’s Channel from the Pacific Ocean, between latitude 47° and 48°, from the Gulf of Penas, is very easy for all classes of vessels, and the navigation of this channel can be performed with perfect safety at the present time by small steamers, and when two hidden rocks in the English narrows of said channel are marked by proper buoys, all classes of steamers can pass with ease; in fact many of the largest vessels of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company have already navigated this route. But one or two accidents in the narrows above alluded to have caused an order for no further attempts of this kind to be made until the rocks spoken of can be properly marked, a thing which ought soon to be done, and thus many hundred miles of dangerous and unpleasant navigation would be avoided. Cape Pillar then can be left to its stormy, gloomy glory, the dread of even experienced navigators, and the terror of all travelers with sensitive stomachs or delicate nerves.
In a former dispatch I transmitted correspondence had with the Chilian government upon the propriety and feasibility of placing a system of steam tow-boats in the Straits of Magellan, the tenor of which was unfavorable to such a project. I am satisfied now from personal observation of the truthfulness of the report of the governor of Magellan contained in said correspondence, relating to the difficulties to be encountered in the Pacific entrance to said straits. All of which, however, may be obviated by the navigation of Smyth’s Channel, the entrance to which, as previously stated, is easy, and near which there are plenty of places suitable for the rendezvous of all classes of vessels; and I am convinced more than ever of the importance of a line of tow-boats through these waters, not only in a humanitarian point of view, but as a great financial saving to the commerce of the world now passing around Cape Horn. My dispatches and correspondence on this subject were largely prompted by the great loss of life and property in the past while navigating the waters in this vicinity, my attention being especially aroused, by the loss of the American vessel Golden Hind during the last winter, when many lives were lost, and those saved only so after passing through untold hardships, and being preserved from actual starvation by feeding upon the bodies of their dead companions for many days; and since my return I have learned of the loss of a vessel near Cape Pillar, whose surviving passengers and crew we must have passed in the night or fog unnoticed, as they were found in a boat a few days afterward, with only one woman and two men living, twenty-two having starved to death.
A further lengthening of this route of internal navigation will eventually take place, and with great advantage to Chili, by cutting a channel [Page 111] across a narrow strip of land now separating the waters of the Gulf of Penas and Smyth’s Channel from the waters lying between the island of Chiloe and the main land, allowing vessels subsequently to pass from between latitude 41° and 42° on the Pacific through quiet waters and easy navigation, with interesting scenery constantly in view, to the waters of the Atlantic. And when Chili shall take advantage of all these fortunate circumstances, and construct a railroad to these waters at or near the present town of Port Meritt, a large commercial city will be rapidly built at said place.
The scenery through the straits in many places is beautiful and grand in the extreme. Quite a number of magnificent glaciers may be seen at different points, some of them coming to the water’s edge, from which it would be an easy matter to obtain a supply of ice for a long voyage or for sale in more northern localities. I noticed an enormous whale disporting himself one morning in a narrow passage, very seriously perplexed by being obliged to confine his excited display of fins, tail, &c., within the few rods between the side of our ship and the rocky shore. Multitudes of seals are also often seen in different localities; also an occasional albatross shows himself overhead, though this monstrous bird is usually seen outside the main-land, the largest ones even south of Cape Horn.
Sandy Point is the only settlement of any kind in the Straits of Magellan, or south of the island of Chiloe, on the Pacific side, and is a Chilian colony. On the Atlantic coast there is a settlement on the Bio Negro, (Black River;) also a very small one on the Rio Santa Cruz, both under the Argentine government.
The governments of Chili and the Argentine Republic have not yet located satisfactorily the dividing line between their possessions in Patagonia, both nations claiming more or less of said country. It is hoped, however, that negotiations now pending may result soon in a peaceable adjustment of this matter. Sandy Point has been, and to a certain extent is now, a penal colony of Chili, though of the about eight hundred people now living there less than a hundred are prisoners, and these only for desertion. The police duty of the place and garrison is performed by twenty-five marine soldiers. Captain Oscar Viel, of the Chilian navy, is now and has been for some time its governor. He is a very excellent gentleman, of French descent, ‘speaks English, Spanish, and French, and, together with” his beautiful Peruvian wife, makes all parties happy who are so fortunate as to enjoy the hospitalities of their home, as we had the pleasure of doing for three weeks, not being able to leave sooner on account of the unusual delay of the arrival of regular steamers. This place is located just below-latitude 53°, and about fifty miles north and east of Cape Forward, the southern point of the main-land of the continent. The straits at this place are about twelve or fifteen miles wide, and from Sandy Point Tierra del Fuego is in plain view on the opposite side. The temperature is never hot in summer nor excessively cold in winter, being more moderate than either on the Pacific or Atlantic in the same latitude, and less liable to storms. During about two months of winter there is more or less snow, sometimes to the depth of a foot, but not generally remaining many days, and the thermometer has not been known lower than 14° Fahr. above zero.
Domestic animals, of which there is a good supply of the usual varieties, live during the winter without more feed than they are able to procure for themselves either from the grasses or by browsing in the forests upon the “hard wood” before alluded to. Unquestionably it is bad husbandry not to feed the animals with the grasses and grains [Page 112] which might be grown here without difficulty; still all classes of stock looked well, and especially the oxen, which I think average larger than any I have ever seen in any other country. The soil is evidently very fertile, and when under proper cultivation would produce all classes of vegetables usually grown in similar climates. At present very little is being done towards developing the agricultural resources of the country. The timber is good, though, as stated previously, mainly of one variety. A government water power saw-mill of an inferior quality near the town supplies readily all the needed boards, &c, at present required. The trees are large, though not high. I measured one blown over by the wind which was seven feet in diameter. Few, however, are as large.
The coal-fields are evidently large, and when fully developed must prove of great service to the wealth of the place. At present only one mine has been opened and is being worked. This lies about five miles from the town, and is reached by a narrow railroad on which small cars are drawn by horses to the mines, and from which the easy grade is sufficient to return said cars without any other motive-power. This coal, though abundant thus far has not proven of a very good quality, and is refused by the steamers passing. A deposit about one hundred and fifty miles in the interior promises to be of much more value; other veins near also give promise of future production, when more developments have been made; but that there are large deposits of coal there is no doubt.
The gold fields also of this vicinity are evidently rich and extensive. Gold has been found in all the streams of the neighborhood, and, though no systematic efforts have been made for its development within the last year, from official statements it is shown that more than twenty-five thousand dollars’ worth have been sent from the colony. The gold is found generally in small nuggets and may be called gulch and placer gold. The largest nugget found last year was worth nearly $40. The implements used for washing gold are of the crudest variety—a miserable spade and a wooden bowl; nothing more has ever been used. I saw parties washing in various places, and never observed a dish of earth without the “color” showing itself. To test the matter a little, Mr. Ibañez offered the prisoners for their own use and benefit all the gold they could get within four days, provided they would show him the gold they obtained. And the result of their labors, without any previous preparation and with but few implements, was an average of about seventy cents’ worth per day for each man. No “sluices,” “rockers,” long toms,” “quicksilver,” or other appliances usual in gold-diggings have ever been used here, and I was unable to learn that any effort had been made to find the bed-rock. The diggers seemed to make a hole and wash a while, and then go to another place, without any regular plan of operations, all the time finding more or less of the precious metal. As I watched their proceedings, it seemed to me that some systematic work would soon make a different showing as the result of labor, but having had very little personal experience in mining districts I can only give the facts as I found them.
Tierra del Fuego, lying opposite Sandy Point, is well wooded for the most part, and especially the slope fronting the north is evidently as well if not better fitted for the habitation of man than the neighborhood of Sandy Point. As day after day and night after night the smoke of the camp-fires of the Fuegean Indians was seen in plain view of civilization, I could not but feel sad to think that for any reason there was no communication whatever between the two shores, the inhabitants of [Page 113] each side being afraid of the treachery of the other, and whether either had just cause for such notions is a question of doubt in my mind; and the only thing I seriously regret, connected with my voyage, is that I was not able to visit the Fuegean Indians, and make an effort to place them on friendly terms with the whites of all nations, as all parties traversing those waters are more or less liable to fall into their hands, and in their present destitute condition they are unable, whether so disposed or not, to give much assistance to unfortunate seamen or others thrown upon their shores.
On my arrival I made great efforts to get an interview with the inhabitants, but there was no proper and safe means of so doing. I have the promise, however, that within a few months a Chilian man-of-war will be stationed at Sandy Point, and the governor will make, I think, successful efforts to form a friendly acquaintance with his Fuegean neighbors. It is said of them that they are cannibals, and all sorts of bad tales are told of them, but I am not prepared to believe these reports. It is said that the captain of an English vessel, a few years ago, while on the island with some of his crew, was killed and eaten, the latter part of which is not believed by those best informed, and my information is derived from the gentleman who visited the place afterward, and found the remains of the captain and buried them, and who is of opinion that his death was caused purely by his own folly and madness. Other circumstances corroborate his view. The facts are, these Indians, like most others in all countries, have been treacherously dealt with by their white neighbors, and cannot be blamed for having unpleasant feelings and those of distrust against said neighbors. As, for instance, many years ago, before the advent of the present governor, the then governor of Sandy Point, having for some purpose several of these Fuegeans with him and in his power, had some of them unmercifully whipped. These people, not understanding and not enjoying this kind of international courtesy and kindness, sought in haste their own homes, and have not since ventured near the settlement. But if it is true, which I do not believe, that these people are as savage and blood-thirsty as represented, seeing that they live directly on the track of a great thoroughfare traveled by the growing commerce of the world, it is only another argument in favor of the importance of a speedy effort being made to secure their civilization and friendship. My anxiety in this direction, as stated before, has been heightened from the fact that not many months since one of our own ships was wrecked near Cape Horn, and had these Indians been on friendly terms with this settlement so that they had dared to have taken those starving, freezing mariners under their guidance, they might and unquestionably would have cheerfully shown them the way to a harbor of safety and plenty, instead of only being able to throw them a duck or two from their own scanty fare, as those Indians at the best can scarcely obtain food for their own consumption, and travel long distances in their canoes, even away up Smyth’s Channel, for the purpose of getting something to eat. I am in this connection happy to know that nothing in the history of our beloved President has endeared him more to the hearts of all true philanthropists than his attempts, in the interest of humanity and true Christianity, to ameliorate the condition of our own Indians, and show his recognition in the wild Indian of the mountains and plains of a brother mail. And I may be allowed to say that in this one recognition lies the final and easy solution of the whole Indian question. I hope I shall be able to report before many months an arrangement peaceful and satisfactory with these heretofore badly-reputed Fuegeans. And, in view of the actual concern the commerce of our [Page 114] country has in this important matter, I would suggest the propriety of an official manifestation to the Chilian government of the interest and sympathy the Government of the United States has in any successful attempt to cultivate peaceable and friendly relations with the said Indians. I ought, in this connection, to state that a small English mission on Narvarrin Island, connected with the Anglican mission on Falkland Island, has been established, the good intentions of whose authors and workers are praiseworthy. Such enterprises, however, should not be left alone to the philanthropy of a few individuals, especially as nations as well as individuals are to be benefited by the civilization of these people. From the appearance of some Fuegeans living among the Patagonian Indians, with whom I had frequent interviews, and from many other sources, I am able to state that the Fuegean is by nature a smart, active, and intelligent being; his stature is about that of the average European, with bright face, well developed and regularly formed head, and when brought under the influence of education he will hold his own with any other race of human beings. His living is largely by fishing, though game to a limited extent abounds on the land he inhabit, to kill which he uses the finest bows and arrows I have ever seen. Of his ingenuity I have ample proof in some of the ornaments and utensils of his manufacture in my possession. His canoes are also quite ingeniously constructed. His covering is of skins. The religion of the Fuegeans is like that of most Indians; they believe the good will be happy and the bad unhappy in the spirit world, and they color the localities where these good and bad parties may find themselves in accordance with their fancies. Staten Island, lying to the southeast of Tierra del Fuego, is well wooded, and is now being occupied by a party from Sandy Point in getting oil from the multitude of penguins which are found on the island; many of the largest, especially the “king penguin,” yielding a gallon each. Magdalena and Quartermaster Islands, situated in the straits, and within sight of Sandy Point, to the east, in a clear day, are now being occupied by parties procuring guano, the same being purchased from the government of Chili. Guano is also found in various places on the small islands near the eastern coast of Patagonia.
Always within view at Sandy Point are mountains covered with snow, though none are very near. Mount Sarmiento, distant to the south from Sandy Point nearly a hundred miles, is evidently a volcano, though this fact was not recognized even by the governor until I called his attention to the same. This, however, is not much to be wondered at, as there are not many days in the year when a good view from this place can be obtained of the mountain, owing to the clouds usually surrounding its summit. I do not think it is in active operation, except to send forth gaseous vapors, which do not give light in the night, and during even a clear sky are only made visible by the sun’s rays from an angle suited to the locality of the eye. As, for instance, while watching the unquestioned escape of large columns of gaseous vapor one evening before sunset, immediately after the sun’s rays had disappeared, and yet while the mountain was in perfect view, no vapors were observable. The same phenomenon I have frequently noticed in many localities in the Andes, and from craters from which I positively knew hot volcanic vapors were issuing, as I had been in close proximity to them. There are very many such mountains in the Andean Cordilleras, sort of breathing places, and when in their immediate vicinity, aside from witnessing vaporous emanations, a blowing sound is heard, of greater or less intensity, sometimes continuous, at others intermitting, as though old [Page 115] earth was carrying on the process of respiration, puffing and blowing, frequently with great regularity.
I saw much of the Patagonian Indians. Many different parties of these fabled giants having visited the place for trade during my sojourn, and through the kindness of the governor and others, as well as the Indians themselves, many of whom spoke quite passable Spanish, I was enabled to gather very correct ideas of these people. Their principal chief, Casimiro, is an intelligent Indian, and when duly sober was very interesting in his description of his country and people. The tribe numbers, according to his estimation of those that live in the whole of Eastern Patagonia, as far north as the Rio Negro, about three thousand; very few of these, however, ever visit Sandy Point. For many years the government of the Argentine Republic has given several of the chiefs annuities. Casimiro has received large amounts from this source, but his generosity of heart always keeps him a very poor Indian. The living of these Indians is purely by the chase, except a few berries from the pampas. The huanaco and ostrich form their principal food, and the skins of these animals are used, also, for their clothing and articles of merchandise. The meat of the ostrich, when cooked, resembles very much that of the prairie-chicken, and is quite palatable; that of the huanaco the flesh of the deer, and is, therefore, good.
A singular fact connected with the Patagonian is that he never uses the bow and arrow; his sole instrument for hunting is the “bola,” consisting of two and sometimes three balls of convenient size, to hold one in the hand while the other, at the end of a cord from two to three yards in length, is swung around the head until sufficient momentum is obtained, and all thrown with great swiftness, twirling around in circles through the air until some object is struck, when the balls immediately wind themselves around the same with great violence, whether it be the neck or leg of a huanaco, ostrich, horse, or other animal, and when thus entangled he becomes an easy prey for the knife. The lion is thus attacked. In Southern Patagonia two balls alone are used, while farther north sometimes three, going from a common center. They have, however, some guns and revolvers, but only use them in warfare, or in their drunken quarrels, when too near the vicinity of bad men who have despoiled them of their goods and reason in exchange for infernal “firewater.” The average height of the men is five feet and a fraction over nine inches. The tallest one I found was six feet three inches and a half. They are broad-shouldered, with large, muscular bodies and limbs, and, like most large people, are well-disposed.
Casimiro, a little larger than the average, measured five feet ten inches in height, and around the body under the arm forty-six inches and three-quarters; his feet, ten and three-quarter inches in length; head, twenty-three and a half inches in circumference. I measured no male head which was less than twenty-two inches, and only one female head as small as twenty-one inches around the crown. They are without doubt the largest race at the present time in the world. The women, while large, with broad shoulders, are not as tall in proportion as the men, not averaging quite five feet two inches. They have very fine horses, which they eat when other provisions are short. Their covering is almost exclusively made from the skins of the young huanaco, which makes quite an elegant robe, and is much sought after by travelers passing through the straits, and also quite an article of merchandise in Valparaiso, Buenos Ayres, and Montevideo, as are also the robes of the ostrich skins. The ostrich of Patagonia is much smaller than those of the more northern pampas; the eggs, which form not an unpleasant [Page 116] article of diet, are also much smaller, being 11¾ inches in circumference in the smallest part, and 14¼ inches in the largest. A few of these, however delicately cooked, soon satisfy even a hungry man’s craving for “poached eggs.” The long feathers of these ostriches are used for brushes, but not for ornaments. The beautiful ostrich plumes so much used by milliners are obtained from the African ostrich. Casimiro informed me that he understood the religion of the Cristianos, (Christians,) and that he had been baptized by a Catholic priest, but his people did not like this religion; they preferred their own. Their belief was that there were two roads after death, one going to a good and the other to a bad land. He had recently lost a daughter, who, he said, went to the Christian’s heaven, because she had been baptized by a Christian; none of the other members of his family were Christians, but he thought they would all go to the same heaven; he could not see any other place for them to go to. These Indians also believe that the spirits of the departed come back, especially in the night-time, to visit their friends. They are evidently a very good-natured set of people, and could a policy be adopted of placing them upon reservations, and teaching them how to cultivate the soil, they would soon become prosperous and happy. The old chiefs eyes brightened up as I explained to him the plan of reservations adopted for the Indians of my country, and he eagerly said he should like the same for his tribe, as they all enjoyed the products of the soil. But alas! there seems no hope for this once great and powerful race; “fire-water” and the contamination of bad white men, it is feared, will soon prove their total extinction.
On our return we left the steamer at Coronel and came the remainder by land, several hundred miles, passing on the way through a rich country, but entirely devoid of timber, though formerly covered with heavy forests; and now for much of the distance there is a scarcity of water, it being observed that as the forests disappear the water-courses dry up in many places, so that mills formerly run by water were seen with no streams near them. Even as far north as Santiago, when the place was first settled, it was surrounded by a timbered country, while now for several hundred miles south the agriculturists depend upon irrigation from mountain streams for their crops. We diverged from our route for a few days to visit the baths of Chilean, in the Andes, about 7,000 feet above the level of the sea. These baths are somewhat celebrated, and justly so, being supplied with water from a large number of hot mineral springs pouring forth from a mountain formerly the seat of a volcano, and now sending out gaseous vapors from a multitude of springs evidently communicating with the former subterranean fires, whose ancient activity is well attested by the immense quantity of volcanic debris in the vicinity, as well as the present character of the phenomena everywhere visible. There are many, baths of somewhat similar nature in this country, but none with waters of so good a reputation as these.
The springs are of different varieties, as sulphur, soda, iron, and potash. A very excellent steam sulphur-bath is made from the very hot steam fresh from the earth. Said baths are situated between latitude 36° and 37°. Within the distance of a few leagues in several directions are volcanoes indifferent stages of activity at the present time—that of Chilian, to the north, with two openings, called the old and new, now only emitting gaseous vapors, while that of Antuca, lying to the south, has more or less smoke mixed with its vapors. There are some of lesser note still nearer, whose names I have forgotten. In my rambles not far from the baths above alluded to, I found an extensive cave beneath a [Page 117] snow-field, in which I discovered a tender plant with green leaves growing, while from the snowy arch overhead a few rays of light were struggling through to cheer its loneliness.
These baths are only used a few weeks in summer, after which they are entirely deserted, all the buildings being completely buried beneath the snow for many months, and left wholly to the guard of the elements of nature in their lonely mountain solitudes.
I have, &c.,